Sunday, March 6, 2011 at 12:05 PM
Recycled fibers Recycled or reclaimed fibers are made from scraps of fabrics collected from clothing factories, which are processed back into short fibers for spinning into a new yarn.[5] There are only a few facilities globally that are able to process the clippings and variations range from a blend of recycled cotton fibers+added rePET yarns for strength to recycled cotton fibers+virgin acrylic fibers which are added for color consistency and strength. Designers Designers say that they are trying to incorporate these sustainable practices into modern clothing, rather than producing "hippy clothes." Due to the efforts taken to minimize harm in the growth, manufacturing, and shipping of the products, sustainable fashion is typically more expensive than clothing produced by conventional methods. Celebrities, models, and designers such as Stella McCartney, Rogan Gregory, Peter Ingwersen, Ali Hewson, Bono, and Summer Rayne Oakes have recently drawn attention to socially-conscious and environmentally friendly fashion. Portland Fashion Week, which has featured sustainable designers and apparel since 2005, has also attracted international press for its efforts to sustainably produce a fashion week that showcases 100% eco-friendly designs.An increasing number of Hollywood celebrities have been associated with sustainable fashion, including Natalie Portman, Cameron Diaz, Alicia Silverstone, Adrian Grenier, Jennifer Aniston and Salma Hayek.[citation needed] Brands As well as fashion designers, there also exist entire brands built on the concept of sustainable fashion. To be truly sustainable, brands must use natural, sustainable materials to make their clothing; and sustainable, renewable forms of energy to power their factories. For example brands such as Rapanui, a UK based sustainable fashion brand use Vestas Wind Turbines to power their textile mill in India, where organic cotton is turned into products for the UK market. To use conventional methods of generating electricity, by burning fossil fuels, would negate the positive effects of using sustainable materials and consequently the company could not honestly call itself sustainable and may be guilty of Greenwashing. For this reason, it is important that sustainable fashion brands are 100% transparent about the way they do business so that the customer can find out more about every stage of the supply chain and judge the sustainability of the product themselves before buying. Traceability tools are becoming increasingly popular, usually in the form of an interactive map displaying each stage of the supply chain and providing honest, factual information about the processes that occur at each stage of the supply chain.Controversy Though all cotton has a large carbon footprint for its cultivation and production, organic cotton is considered a more sustainable choice for fabric, as it is completely free of destructive toxic pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Many designers have begun experimenting with bamboo fibre, which absorbs greenhouse gases during its life cycle and grows quickly and plentifully without pesticides.[8]. Even with this, bamboo fabric can cause environmental harm in production due to the chemicals used to create a soft viscose from hard bamboo.[9]. Some believe hemp is one of the best choice for eco fabrics due to its ease of growth, though it remains illegal to grow in some countries. These facts make recycled, reclaimed, surplus, and vintage fabric arguably the most sustainable choice, as the raw material requires no agriculture and no manufacturing to produce. Recently, another alternative to sustainable fashion has emerged that uses synthetic fibers with a process called AirDye technology that eliminates all water from the dyeing and printing process. While critics still point to the chemicals used in making synthetic materials, this method significantly reduces water consumption and pollution, while cotton (organic or not) uses a tremendous amount of water during the growth and dyeing phases. Critics of sustainable fashion have argued that the trend merely seeks to stamp high-priced luxury goods with a seal of liberal social approval.[citation needed]. Another major criticism about "sustainable fashion" is the potential of constantly changing fashion to encourage customers to repeatedly discard last season's clothing to purchase the latest fashions.